Caminho Português 2015

 

June 6th 2015

Exactly one year after my previous Camino-walk I'm embarking on another one. This time I have chosen the Portuguese way from Porto to Santiago (250 km).

The whole day today was spent in Porto, which is the second-largest city in the country and steeped in history. Of course, Porto or "Oporto" is best-known for its wonderful wine, but it has much more to offer. Let's face it one single day is not barely enough to discover a city of this size. Besides all those wonderful old buildings and amazing bridges (yep, one was built by the guy who built the Eiffel tower), it has some great cuisine!

Two of the local specialties are "Bacalhau" (a cod dish) and "Franceshina". The latter one is a sandwich filled with ham, sausage, steak and tomatoe; wrapped in cheese; baked and served in a beer sauce ... and yes, the secret is in the sauce. Every restaurant seems to have its own recipe. In case you favour something sweet, no problem, the city is full of fab bakeries and Cafés. The poshest and probably nicest is the "Majestic Café". The Champagne breakfast there is a must.

Anyway, early tomorrow morning I will be hitting the road and head to Vila do Conde (... well, at least that's the plan).

 

 

 

 

 

 

June 7th 2015 – Day 1: Porto - Vila do Conde (30 km)

After an early start from Porto Cathedral I walked along the sea for most of the day. This way was a fairly new alternative route. The more established route would have been to Vilarinho. The way to Vilarinho is about 5 km shorter and better signposted. However, for approx. 10 km you would have to walk across housing- and industrial estates. The way along the sea features some much nicer landscape and fab long boardwalks along the beach. They're a pleasure to walk on.

There are lots of seaside cafés and fish restaurants along the coastline.

Tomorrow I will walk inland in order to re-join the original Camino way ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

June 8th 2015 – Day 2: Vila do Conde - Barcelos (31 km)

Moving inland the terrain became increasingly more hilly. In Arcos I got onto the original Camino path again. Thereafter the way was very well waymarked. Most of journey took me along country road and across some sleepy villages. Sometimes the road changed to dirt paths through fields and forests.

One friendly farmer briefly stopped his work and handed me some freshly picked orange. He then wished me "Bom Caminho".

Most of the day I hardly saw a soul, apart from a few local farmers. There seem to be much fewer "pilgrims" along the Portuguese Camino. By comparison the Camino Frances was hopping with people this time of year.

Only two Portuguese bike pilgrims passed by and one lady on foot with two Alsatians. Coincidently that lady was East-German too (Rostock). We only walked a short distance together as she was heading for another village. Accommodation that allows dogs is hard to find.

The final few kilometres of today's stage were a bit like chewing gum. Those rollercoaster-like hills and that intense heat were slowing me down quite a bit.

I was delighted when I finally reached Barcelos, which is a very pretty little town. It is best-known for its long tradition of ceramics and for the miraculous tale of the "Barcelos Rooster", which became a famous symbol for Portugal.
 

 

June 9th 2015 – Day 3: Barcelos - Ponte de Lima (34 km)

The longest stretch so far. The area was very rural and there was little to see along the way. The highlight of today was definitely the arrival in Ponte de Lima. The next two stages will be considerably shorter. If everything goes to plan I should reach the Spanish border by Thursday...

 

June 10th 2015 – Day 4: Ponte de Lima - Rubiães (18 km)

Compared to yesterday, today was like a walk in the park. The path took me across vineyards and small mountain villages. A cloud cover provided a bit of coolness after the heat wave those last few days.

Along the way I met two ladies from Canada, mother and daughter, and together we walked until Rubiães. Through them I discovered a lovely B&B in the middle of nowhere, where I will be staying tonight. The place even has an outdoor pool. For dinner the owner of the B&B drove us to the only restaurant within the vicinity called "Bom Retiro". There we met some other fellow pilgrims from Belgium, Russia, Germany and Portugal. It was a really pleasant evening. Tomorrow will be my last day on Portuguese soil as I should be reaching the Spanish border in the afternoon/evening.

 

June 11th 2015 – Day 5: Rubiães - Valença (20 km)

This is it! My last night on Portuguese soil. Spain is only 300 metres away. I only will have to cross the "Rio Minho" in the morning, and the first town on the Spanish side will be Tui.

 

 

June 12th 2015 – Day 6: Valença (Portugal) - Cesantes (Spain) (38 km)

When I crossed that bridge in the morning, not only did I change countries but also time zones. There is one hour time difference between Portugal (GMT) and Spain (CET).

The first town on Spanish soil was Tui. The town was still asleep when I passed through it. Shortly after Tui was a lengthy (approx. 10 km long) stretch of industrial area. It ended at the town centre of Porriño. After that the landscape became more pleasant and hilly again.

Mos was a pleasant little village on the mountains. In the meantime I had caught up with my Canadian friends and we stopped there for lunch. The next town was Redondela and my Canadian friends stopped there for the night.

I walked to the next village and stopped in a pleasant country hotel on the shore of Lake Ría de Vigo.

June 13th 2015 – Day 7: Cesantes - Pontevedra (16 km)

Heavy rainshowers all last night and throughout the day had cleared the air and cooled temperatures down. Luckily I only had to walk a short distance in this weather.

On my way I passed through Arcade and Ponte Sampaio. The latter place is famous for the the "Battle of Sampaio". In 1809 the joint forces of Spanish troops and Galician militas confronted the French troops. This battle ended the French presence in Galicia. By the afternoon I had reached Pontevedra (82000 inhabitants).

June 14th 2015 - Day 8: Pontevedra - Caldas de Reis (23 km)

After last night's downpour the air was cool and fresh again. Temperatures had decreased to 20°C. Therefore, it was a very pleasant day for walking.

This morning, after crossing the Rio Lérez, I had left Pontevedra. There were quite a few pilgrims on the Camino. Most of them I caught up with in the first café. The place was called "A Pousada do Peregrino" and was to be found in the middle of nowhere, approximately 10 km after Pontevedra.

The remaining 13 km of today's walk were along roads and across vinyards and forests. I reached Caldas de Reis in the afternoon. Caldas is a small town with 7000 souls. One of its treasures are two hot springs (38° and 43°C), which can be found in the centre of town. Some of us submerged our feet in one of the springs. Pure bliss!!!

 

Tomorrow I will be on my second last leg of the journey. Destination: Padrón

June 15th 2015 - Day 9: Caldas de Reis - Padrón (18 km)

The second last day of walking is completed. Tomorrow I will reach Santiago. All that remains are 24 km from here to there.

 

My last stop today is Padrón. The town lies in a wide valley between the rivers Ulla and Sar. The name of the town comes from the "Pedrón", a Roman altar stone which is kept underneath the high altar of the Church of Santiago.

 

June 16th 2015 - Day 10: Padròn - Santiago de Compostela (24 km)

I have arrived!!

It took 4 hours and 30 minutes for this last leg of my journey. I couldn't have asked for better weather, glorious sunshine and 25°C. Last year when I reached Santiago it rained.

When I reached the cathedral shortly after noon, the square in front of it was virtually deserted. However, the side entrance was much busier. The pilgrims' mass had just ended and people where leaving the church. There I met some American fellow pilgrims again, whom I last saw in Caldas de Reis.

This afternoon I will collect my Compostela, enjoy some pulpo and vino tinto and await the arrival of some Irish friends. Tomorrow I will just chill in this wonderful city before heading back to Ireland the next day.

Overall this walk has been a wonderful experience (again), and I would like to do another route in the near future.